The wine cellar of La Tour d’Argent, the oldest restaurant in Paris, is so venerated that only customers who order the most expensive vintages or otherwise ‘prove their interest’ are granted a guided tour.Members of the fortunate few are then escorted into the bowels of the restaurant by a member of staff wearing white tie and tails, who ceremoniously rings a copper bell to announce the visitor’s arrival to the security men who guard its contents round the clock.Once there, they are confronted by a warren of 27 rooms holding more than 300,000 bottles with a combined value of £21million.
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