Dawn breaks as my train judders into Pasazhyrskyi station, punctual as always. This time, though, I am greeted neither by a swarm of Russian drones (like my last visit), nor the adenoidal whine of an air raid siren (which happens every visit).
It is spring and the sun is out in . February’s frost-encrusted pavements have morphed into sun-drenched avenues filled with flotillas of laughing teenagers. The war remains, but under a cloudless sky.
When Vladimir launched a full-scale invasion of Ukraine on February 24, 2022, his generals assured him they would win the war in three days. Some 809 days later, they’re still trying.
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