It takes a cataclysmic war to allow one to contemplate, without the presence of another soul, the shrine marking the spot where the world's most popular religion began.The Grotto of the Manger, beneath the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem, is deserted. Usually queues at the birthplace of Jesus Christ resemble security at a busy airport. No longer.One million foreign tourists visit Bethlehem each year. But, by 11am, on October 7, some five hours after launched its murderous rampage, the streets of the Old City had emptied. By October 10, every tourist had left.
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