Ukrainians don't jaywalk, even when other norms of everyday life have ceased. It is Thursday evening and under a sullen grey sky a little knot of civilians and soldiers are waiting for the pedestrian lights to turn green before they set out across the traffic-free expanse of Vasylia Stusa Street.Meanwhile, 50 yards further along the empty, four-lane carriageway, rescue teams are still pulling bodies from the ruin of what was once the Ria lounge bar and pizzeria. How many, and whose bodies, is now a propaganda contention between and Moscow.The scenes here in Kramatorsk provide a sombre coda to an extraordinary week that began with the mutiny led by , head of the Wagner mercenary group, that promised, for several euphoric hours at least, to reach Moscow and even topple the regime of President Vladimir .
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